One Size Does Not Fit Most

On one of my recent visits to Britex in San Francisco, I learned the store was phasing out sewing patterns from the “traditional” companies like Vogue for Indie and independent designers.  I respect Britex’s attention to uniqueness and its historic reputation to stand apart from the rest, especially craft/fabric stores, but it’s sad to say good-bye.

I decided to simultaneously work with a Vogue pattern and a pattern designed by independent designer, Lois Ericson.  The written instructions for the Vogue pattern are more detailed, while the Sew and Design Pattern (Lois Ericson) is open-ended for creativity.  I believe prior sewing experience is necessary to work with any of her patterns. (Of course, there is a new generation of designers I’m looking forward to investigating, but not limited to are Colette Patterns   https://www.colettepatterns.com/ and Victory Patterns https://www.victorypatterns.com/.)

I traced the patterns onto medical pattern paper, and cut out a muslin of each pattern, and attended a garment construction class with Sally-Ann Flak.  Sally-Ann fitted the patterns to my body, and I incorporated the changes to the pieces.  Here is what I learned about my body in relation to these two patterns.

One Size Does Not Fit Most_1_1
Vogue Pattern V7883

The pants pulled down in the back because my derriere sits low and I needed to add extra fullness.  I added 1/2 inch 6 inches down from my waist by cutting and spreading the pattern piece.  The front pants piece required no alterations.  The top ended up being two sizes smaller than the pants.

One Size Does Not Fit Most #2_1_1
Design and Sew #321 – Suit Yourself

As with the Vogue pattern, I traced and cut a muslin of the pattern.  To begin with, the pants needed to be shortened 3 inches and the pant legs needed to be redrawn.  The crotch length on the front needed to be shortened 2 inches.  The waist on the front and back needed to be decreased by 3/8 inch.  I needed to slash and decrease the hips by 1/2 inch.  The back darts were a bit too long, so the adjustment didn’t require me to redraft the darts.  The jacket is one size smaller than the pants, and needs to be fitted.  I have a feeling the jacket needs to be one size smaller and 2 inches shorter.

Of course, the patterns are two different styles and probably is not a fair comparison, but I’m definitely developing a deeper understanding of pattern fit and alterations.  My bod is not in proportion.  The top of my body is two sizes smaller than the lower portion of my body with one hip higher than the other, and my hips tilt forward.

For a long time, I’ve wanted to delve into the world of fashion design, and I believe now is the right time.  Staring in August, I plan on exploring the Fashion Design and Merchandising Department at Canada College in Redwood City, CA.

 

 

 

 

 

The Year Of The Horse

Two Days In The CityTwo days this week, I took a journey to San Francisco.  I stayed at The Hilton, centrally located and within walking distance to good food, shopping and fabric.

The first day of my exploration began with a trip down the Macy’s escalator to the basement for lunch.  Boudin Bakery has the best sour dough bread bowl with clam chowder.  Even though I was excited about my trip, I began to  reminisce about my daughter and our lunches together at Boudin’s.  I dusted the bread crumbs from my lap, wiped the tears from my eyes and headed to Britex http://www.britexfabrics.com/.

Four floors of bliss…fabric, buttons, and notions. Everyone who reads my blog knows I love Missoni. Guess what I found at Britex?  I purchased 1-1/2 yards of Missoni knit fabric for a skirt.  I’ll probably end up admiring the knit like a painting and never touch it with a pair of scissors.  On the next floor, I found some interesting trim and buttons.  Two Days In The City #3

Two Days In The City #2

With all the shopping and walking up and down the streets of SF, I stopped in for dinner at Cafe Mason http://cafemason.net/. The chicken picatta was delicious and the service was fantastic.

Photo469The next day, I shopped at Macy’s and on my way back to the hotel, I walked to China Town.  I wanted to capture the cultural architecture decorated with beautiful red lanterns.