One Size Does Not Fit Most

On one of my recent visits to Britex in San Francisco, I learned the store was phasing out sewing patterns from the “traditional” companies like Vogue for Indie and independent designers.  I respect Britex’s attention to uniqueness and its historic reputation to stand apart from the rest, especially craft/fabric stores, but it’s sad to say good-bye.

I decided to simultaneously work with a Vogue pattern and a pattern designed by independent designer, Lois Ericson.  The written instructions for the Vogue pattern are more detailed, while the Sew and Design Pattern (Lois Ericson) is open-ended for creativity.  I believe prior sewing experience is necessary to work with any of her patterns. (Of course, there is a new generation of designers I’m looking forward to investigating, but not limited to are Colette Patterns   https://www.colettepatterns.com/ and Victory Patterns https://www.victorypatterns.com/.)

I traced the patterns onto medical pattern paper, and cut out a muslin of each pattern, and attended a garment construction class with Sally-Ann Flak.  Sally-Ann fitted the patterns to my body, and I incorporated the changes to the pieces.  Here is what I learned about my body in relation to these two patterns.

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Vogue Pattern V7883

The pants pulled down in the back because my derriere sits low and I needed to add extra fullness.  I added 1/2 inch 6 inches down from my waist by cutting and spreading the pattern piece.  The front pants piece required no alterations.  The top ended up being two sizes smaller than the pants.

One Size Does Not Fit Most #2_1_1
Design and Sew #321 – Suit Yourself

As with the Vogue pattern, I traced and cut a muslin of the pattern.  To begin with, the pants needed to be shortened 3 inches and the pant legs needed to be redrawn.  The crotch length on the front needed to be shortened 2 inches.  The waist on the front and back needed to be decreased by 3/8 inch.  I needed to slash and decrease the hips by 1/2 inch.  The back darts were a bit too long, so the adjustment didn’t require me to redraft the darts.  The jacket is one size smaller than the pants, and needs to be fitted.  I have a feeling the jacket needs to be one size smaller and 2 inches shorter.

Of course, the patterns are two different styles and probably is not a fair comparison, but I’m definitely developing a deeper understanding of pattern fit and alterations.  My bod is not in proportion.  The top of my body is two sizes smaller than the lower portion of my body with one hip higher than the other, and my hips tilt forward.

For a long time, I’ve wanted to delve into the world of fashion design, and I believe now is the right time.  Staring in August, I plan on exploring the Fashion Design and Merchandising Department at Canada College in Redwood City, CA.

 

 

 

 

 

Slow Fashion

BY KATRINA RODABAUGH // There are few books I can wholeheartedly recommend the way I can recommend Overdressed: The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion to anyone interested in sustainable fashion. That’s right, anyone. I first came across this book by Elizabeth L. Cline when I heard her interviewed on NPR a few years ago. I promptly bought […]

via Slow Fashion Citizen: Elizabeth L. Cline — Fringe Association

For all of those interested in slow fashion, this blog post offers some interesting observations along with recommended reading on the subject.

Backyard Playground

Since the drought has officially been declared over, I decided to plant a garden this year. Not such an easy endeavor… Well, I discovered this morning, raccoons were busy last night digging up my sunflowers and zinnias.  This really hurts because I pulled weeds, amended the soil and carefully planted the seeds according to the directions on the package.  At first, the birds were eating the sunflower seeds, but I was able to outsmart the birds by covering the top of the location with netting.  I suspect the raccoons are searching for the booty buried by the blue jays.  The blue jays are busy taking dry cat food pieces from the cat’s bowl when he’s not looking.

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Photo Credit:  Mary Lou Fall

The wild life does not seem to be interested in the zucchini nor the crookneck squash.

My Garden 2017 #2_1
Photo Credit:  Mary Lou Fall

Here are the first tomatoes of Summer 2017.

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Photo credit:  Mary Lou Fall

A garden is not complete without a ladybug or

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Photo credit:  Mary Lou Fall

spider.

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Photo credit:  Mary Lou Fall